I remember a stand up comedian had me laughing once when, having mentioned a scenario where a friend might say something stupid in particular, he advised the audience to roll up a newspaper, smack the friend on the nose with it, and yell, "NO!" That is how I feel about most people using premium gas.
Don't get me wrong -- I LOVED it when they bought premium at my gas station. Why? Because I knew that for about one or two cents difference in our cost we were making twenty to thirty cents more per gallon. That's a good markup in almost any business.
You MUST have heard this before, but it needs to be said again, newspaper at the ready: Unless you are driving a high performance vehicle you are wasting your money. Higher octane does not mean better gasoline. It means greater resistance to combustion, which nearly all cars do NOT need. High performance engines need it because they typically have higher compression ratios, making them more prone to pre-ignition (burning of the gasoline before the spark plug fires).
To add a twist of irony, I've seen spark plugs with deposits on them (not good) because the super-unleaded gasoline had so much detergent that it wasn't burning off in the normal compression engine of the car.
If you want the detergents of the higher octane gas you can just pour any name-brand fuel injector cleaner once a month or two. It will do a better job and cost less!
Interestingly, in reading up on Water Hybrid Engine Technology, I've found that it tends to both clean the combustion chamber AND reduce pre-ignition. You may want to look into it, too, since water sure cost a lot less than gasoline.
Monday, June 8, 2009
How I Save Gas - Advanced Techniques?
First off, let me allay any suspicions of so-called hyper-miling. I use techniques that "normal" people can use. I do NOT remove any of my car seats, I do NOT hole-saw any sheet metal, and I certainly do not draft behind larger vehicles! Not only are some of those techniques dangerous but, in the case of drafting (tailgating a vehicle such as a truck to drastically reduce wind drag), it is illegal and can cause your engine to overheat.
So, what do I do? Simple things, really. I use techniques that have been around for decades and longer. Here they are:
1. Accelerate gradually, shifting into the next gear as soon as I safely can without lugging the engine. You know you're lugging when the motor starts groaning and you're not accelerating. Don't block traffic, but don't race other drivers, either. Stay close to the speed limit -- most cars get their best fuel economy between 40 and 60 miles per hour, give or take a few.
2. Keep your eyes open for people slowing down/hitting their brakes (good for spotting traffic cops, too), traffic lights that have been green for a long time (meaning they'll probably turn red by the time I get near them), and red lights (of course!).
3. Coasting. This is the one technique I could say is "advanced" in the sense that it requires greater awareness of traffic and road conditions than most people exhibit, but this is actually a technique so simple and so known that when I mention it to people they can't believe they hadn't thought of it. I only recommend this to folks driving vehicles with a clutch for mechanical reasons. Think back to when you road a bicycle. When you were at the speed you wanted, and especially when going downhill, did you keep frantically pedaling, or did you coast and let momentum and gravity do the work for you? Unless you were racing I hope you coasted, yet what do we do with our cars? Maybe we let up on the gas pedal, but here's the bad news on that: it's NOT a GAS PEDAL! It controls the throttle, which means it actually controls the amount of AIR going into the engine. So what happens when you're going downhill? You let up on the "gas" pedal, but the engine is running at the same speed, and it still uses a lot more gas than if you were idling. Yes, it may be a leaner fuel mixture, but it's still more gas! So, when going downhill at a proper speed I shift into neutral. Ironically I find that I have to tap on the brake to avoid tailgating, showing how much MORE gas I would have been wasting just to go slower if I'd left the car in gear!
SO there you have it, folks: the deep, dark, mysterious techniques that I use to get 41 miles to the gallon on a normal gasoline-powered car.
My next move will be to try out Water Hybrid Engine Technology. You may want to look into it, too. Now that the warmer weather is back I have more of an inclination to attack extra projects!
So, what do I do? Simple things, really. I use techniques that have been around for decades and longer. Here they are:
1. Accelerate gradually, shifting into the next gear as soon as I safely can without lugging the engine. You know you're lugging when the motor starts groaning and you're not accelerating. Don't block traffic, but don't race other drivers, either. Stay close to the speed limit -- most cars get their best fuel economy between 40 and 60 miles per hour, give or take a few.
2. Keep your eyes open for people slowing down/hitting their brakes (good for spotting traffic cops, too), traffic lights that have been green for a long time (meaning they'll probably turn red by the time I get near them), and red lights (of course!).
3. Coasting. This is the one technique I could say is "advanced" in the sense that it requires greater awareness of traffic and road conditions than most people exhibit, but this is actually a technique so simple and so known that when I mention it to people they can't believe they hadn't thought of it. I only recommend this to folks driving vehicles with a clutch for mechanical reasons. Think back to when you road a bicycle. When you were at the speed you wanted, and especially when going downhill, did you keep frantically pedaling, or did you coast and let momentum and gravity do the work for you? Unless you were racing I hope you coasted, yet what do we do with our cars? Maybe we let up on the gas pedal, but here's the bad news on that: it's NOT a GAS PEDAL! It controls the throttle, which means it actually controls the amount of AIR going into the engine. So what happens when you're going downhill? You let up on the "gas" pedal, but the engine is running at the same speed, and it still uses a lot more gas than if you were idling. Yes, it may be a leaner fuel mixture, but it's still more gas! So, when going downhill at a proper speed I shift into neutral. Ironically I find that I have to tap on the brake to avoid tailgating, showing how much MORE gas I would have been wasting just to go slower if I'd left the car in gear!
SO there you have it, folks: the deep, dark, mysterious techniques that I use to get 41 miles to the gallon on a normal gasoline-powered car.
My next move will be to try out Water Hybrid Engine Technology. You may want to look into it, too. Now that the warmer weather is back I have more of an inclination to attack extra projects!
Save on Gas with a New Fuel Filter
I've been asked about my assertion that changing the fuel filter in your car can save gas, and I believe that most folks understand that their engines need the correct ratio of gas to air, so, to avoid beating a dead horse, allow me to point out some other important aspects of keeping a clean fuel filter:
1. A prematurely dirty fuel filter is a clear indication that the gasoline you are using is, well, DIRTY! If you are not using the same gas station repeatedly, you may want to start doing so ASAP to determine WHERE this dirt is coming from.
2. The constant force of your electric fuel pump over time can force dirt through the filter. At that point you start getting dirty injectors and dirt in the cylinders. Bad for saving gas and bad for engine wear.
3. The constant strain on an electric fuel pump trying to force gas through a dirty filter is like holding onto an electric fan blade and then turning the fan on, not letting the blades turn. It will shorten the life span of the electric pump, costing you plenty for it's replacement, and, worst case scenario, can cause an electrical fire. Auto mechanics have a technical term for this: BAD!
If you're interested in ways to save on gas you may want to take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology!
1. A prematurely dirty fuel filter is a clear indication that the gasoline you are using is, well, DIRTY! If you are not using the same gas station repeatedly, you may want to start doing so ASAP to determine WHERE this dirt is coming from.
2. The constant force of your electric fuel pump over time can force dirt through the filter. At that point you start getting dirty injectors and dirt in the cylinders. Bad for saving gas and bad for engine wear.
3. The constant strain on an electric fuel pump trying to force gas through a dirty filter is like holding onto an electric fan blade and then turning the fan on, not letting the blades turn. It will shorten the life span of the electric pump, costing you plenty for it's replacement, and, worst case scenario, can cause an electrical fire. Auto mechanics have a technical term for this: BAD!
If you're interested in ways to save on gas you may want to take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology!
Save Gas by Using the Correct Oil
A lot of folks who are looking to save on gas ask me which is the best oil to use in their car. The answer may seem obvious -- whichever is recommended by the car's manufacturer -- and that's true... until the car gets on in years. And, let's face it, in tougher economic times people tend to keep their cars longer and/or buy used cars. You should understand what those funny numbers for rating motor oils mean in order to make an informed decision. Trust me, I've heard mechanics with years of experience get this wrong, so here it is, plain and simple:
What we use in modern cars is called multi-viscosity oil, and that's why you see two numbers in the rating, such as 5 W-30, 10 W-30, and 20 W-50 (those are the most commonly seen types, if you haven't noticed).
The first number indicates how pourable the oil will be as it gets colder. Just like maple syrup, motor oil gets thicker and thicker as it gets colder to the point where it gets too thick to circulate in the engine. This first number is most important in colder climates.
The second number indicates how resistant to thinning out the oil is as temperatures rise. Again, as with maple syrup, the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets, eventually reaching the point where it is too thin to protect your engine. This makes the second number most important in hotter climates.
So, if you're driving a car with a tired old engine, you've hopefully heard that you should use a heavier oil such as 10 W-40 or even 20 W-50 if you're in a hot climate. But, if you were to use 20 W-50 in a new engine and drove around Canada in the winter, you will most likely need a new engine very soon. Most new cars in the United States are sold with 5 W-30, which provides the best all-around protection. But, where ever you are, the better maintained the vehicle is (read regular and frequent oil changes!), the longer the original type of oil can be used, and the more you'll save on gas.
Looking to improve your gas mileage AND lower harmful emissions? Take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology!
What we use in modern cars is called multi-viscosity oil, and that's why you see two numbers in the rating, such as 5 W-30, 10 W-30, and 20 W-50 (those are the most commonly seen types, if you haven't noticed).
The first number indicates how pourable the oil will be as it gets colder. Just like maple syrup, motor oil gets thicker and thicker as it gets colder to the point where it gets too thick to circulate in the engine. This first number is most important in colder climates.
The second number indicates how resistant to thinning out the oil is as temperatures rise. Again, as with maple syrup, the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets, eventually reaching the point where it is too thin to protect your engine. This makes the second number most important in hotter climates.
So, if you're driving a car with a tired old engine, you've hopefully heard that you should use a heavier oil such as 10 W-40 or even 20 W-50 if you're in a hot climate. But, if you were to use 20 W-50 in a new engine and drove around Canada in the winter, you will most likely need a new engine very soon. Most new cars in the United States are sold with 5 W-30, which provides the best all-around protection. But, where ever you are, the better maintained the vehicle is (read regular and frequent oil changes!), the longer the original type of oil can be used, and the more you'll save on gas.
Looking to improve your gas mileage AND lower harmful emissions? Take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology!
Monday, June 1, 2009
Big Oil is Not Going to Like This...
It looks like these gentlemen have done something Big Oil does not like. I know this because I used to work for a big oil company. Now, you can't blame Big Oil since making a profit is exactly what typical corporations are meant to do. But does it have to be at YOUR expense?
So what have these guys done? They've developed a Water Hybrid Engine Technology that is easy to deploy. Now, don't jump to conclusions; you cannot run your car on water instead of gasoline! But, from what I see on their website and in television news reports, you CAN use your car's own electrical system to break water down into it's component gases, hydrogen and oxygen, and burn them along with gasoline. This means you can get the same power while using less gasoline, thereby-- you guessed it -- saving gas. I also like the fact that, in addition to being easy to install, it's easy to remove in case you need to bring your car to the dealership while under warranty.
Those of you who, like me, are more technically knowledgeable, are probably thinking that it takes much more electricity than your car's 12-volt system can produce to split water molecules, but keep in mind that from a 12-volt system you're producing over 35,000 volts for each spark-plug firing, and that's just for older cars with distributors.
Take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology and let me know what your results are!
So what have these guys done? They've developed a Water Hybrid Engine Technology that is easy to deploy. Now, don't jump to conclusions; you cannot run your car on water instead of gasoline! But, from what I see on their website and in television news reports, you CAN use your car's own electrical system to break water down into it's component gases, hydrogen and oxygen, and burn them along with gasoline. This means you can get the same power while using less gasoline, thereby-- you guessed it -- saving gas. I also like the fact that, in addition to being easy to install, it's easy to remove in case you need to bring your car to the dealership while under warranty.
Those of you who, like me, are more technically knowledgeable, are probably thinking that it takes much more electricity than your car's 12-volt system can produce to split water molecules, but keep in mind that from a 12-volt system you're producing over 35,000 volts for each spark-plug firing, and that's just for older cars with distributors.
Take a look at Water Hybrid Engine Technology and let me know what your results are!
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